Outdoor taps in the Falkenberg municipality

A standard tap can leave water sitting in the pipe when you close it — and if that water freezes it can crack the pipe or the tap. The problem is that the damage sometimes isn’t noticed until you open the water again and it starts leaking inside the wall.

A frost‑proof (frost‑free) outdoor tap is designed so the water drains from the exterior section when you close it. That greatly reduces the risk of freeze damage, especially in coastal and inland climates where temperatures swing around freezing.

But: frost protection only works if it’s installed correctly, with the right slope and sealing. A mis‑installed frost‑free tap can still cause problems.

We make sure both the product choice and installation are right from the start.

Dripping is always a sign that something isn’t fully sealed. Sometimes it’s a washer or insert that needs replacing, sometimes it’s wear in the valve or that the tap doesn’t close fully.

The danger isn’t always the drip outside — it’s the risk that it also leaks into the wall or insulation, especially if the connection behind the facade isn’t sealed or the penetration is done incorrectly.

Also, a small drip in winter can create ice buildup that damages parts or makes the valve stick. So yes: it’s smart to fix it early.

We can troubleshoot and determine whether a service/insert is enough or if replacement is the best long‑term option.

Many frost‑free models have a longer body that goes through the wall, and the shut‑off point is positioned further inside the house. Some models are also marked “frost‑free” or have a visible model code.

But the safest approach is to look at the installation and how it’s mounted. Sometimes a standard tap sits in a wall thickness that makes people think it’s frost‑free, but it lacks drainage and the correct shut‑off point.

If you send a photo of the tap and ideally a photo from the inside (if accessible), we can often tell the type right away.

On site we can also check that it actually drains as it should.

It’s very good to have one. Even if the tap is frost‑free, it’s often a comfort to be able to shut off water to the tap indoors — for service, if you’re away, or to be extra safe before winter.

A shut‑off also makes troubleshooting and maintenance much easier. If something starts leaking you can isolate the issue without shutting down the whole house.

Some installations already have a shut‑off, but it may be hard to access or worn. Then we can look at how to improve the overall setup.

The goal is that you have control and avoid stress when something happens.

Yes, unfortunately. Small leaks can end up inside the construction and be absorbed by insulation or wood, especially if the penetration isn’t properly sealed. That damage can build up over time without showing outside.

Often it shows up later as discoloration, odor or moisture near the penetration — sometimes much later. That’s why correct installation and sealing are so important, especially in facades where water can travel.

If you suspect moisture or see signs of leakage we can check the installation and suggest action before it becomes a bigger problem.

It’s one of the most common reasons people upgrade to a modern, correctly installed solution.

There can be several causes: buildup inside the tap, a partially closed shut‑off valve, a worn insert, or a check valve/valve that restricts flow.

Sometimes it’s also about how the pipes are routed and sized. If the tap is on a “weak” branch of the system, or if multiple outlets are used at once, you’ll notice reduced flow.

We troubleshoot by checking valves, insert and connections — and can often quickly pinpoint the cause.

The goal is that you can use the tap without it feeling like it “barely gives anything.”

It can be done year‑round, but spring and autumn are common periods because you want to be ready for the season. Before spring, many people want to avoid discovering frost damage when they start using the tap again.

If you have a tap that drips or is suspected to be damaged, it’s wise to act immediately — regardless of season — because small problems can grow over time.

In winter it’s often about protecting against frost, and then we can also help review shut‑offs and winter routines.

No matter the time of year, we plan the work so it becomes safe, tight and durable.

For a frost‑free tap it’s usually enough to close it properly and make sure no hose is attached. A hose can hold water and prevent drainage, which increases frost risk.

If you have a “standard” tap you usually need to shut off water via an indoor valve and then drain/relieve so no water remains in the tap or pipe.

If you’re unsure what type you have or how your installation works, we can help you check and describe a safe routine.

It’s a simple step that can save you from a very expensive water damage.

Often yes. We then look at the smartest place to bring it out: placement in relation to kitchen/laundry/utility room, access for pipe routing, and how the facade and wall are built.

We also make sure the penetration is properly sealed and that the installation has the right fall/placement to minimize risk. On the outside, it should be both neat and functional.

We’re happy to help choose the right model depending on how you’ll use it, and whether you want extra features like a lock or better hose connector.

Send a photo of the location and we can quickly assess the conditions.

A photo of the existing tap (or the place where you want one) helps a lot. Please describe the issue: is it dripping, freezing, weak flow, or do you just want to upgrade to frost‑free?

If you know whether there’s an indoor shut‑off valve, and where it is, that’s also useful info. If you’ve had frost damage or moisture issues in the area, it’s especially important to tell us.

Also mention the facade type (wood, render, brick) if you know it, since it affects how we make the penetration.

With that information we can plan correctly from the start, bring the right materials and often give a clear recommendation right away.